The late-afternoon sun already touched the mountain behind me and I stood in shadow, but below me the entire eastern coast of the island blazed as a golden wave that flowed from my feet all the way down to the Atlantic.
Rainbows of Gran Canaria
Finding my style in Rome
Some days during my European life, there is little to disabuse me of the notion that I’ve slid sideways into a rom-com.
A deep dive into Southeast China
We went to China's Fujian province to look at trees, and ended up also seeing tulou and tigers and geoparks and...
Insider’s Guide to Freiburg
Freiburg im Breisgau is the best city in Germany. I promise I'm not just saying that because I've lived, studied, and worked here for 5 years; it's just a city that draws people in. Freiburg is a small city at the threshold of the Black Forest, but don't let the name scare you, because it's... Continue Reading →
An Unexpected Invite to Shanghai
Accepting an unsolicited invitation from a complete stranger to speak at a Shanghai conference after I published one single scientific article was objectively crazy.
Temple Run: 72 hours at Cambodia’s Angkor
You are presented with an endless series of open doorways. One will lead you into a slot canyon of carved walls and gnarled trunks. The next leads into a tumbledown courtyard filled with beehive temples. The next has you following the taffy-like trunk and roots of a single behemoth tree.
The floating jungle huts of Thailand’s Cheow Larn Lake
The wooden plank that served as my seat shivered in time with the longboat's naked motor as we shot across Cheow Larn Lake. Sheer limestone cliffs stabbed upwards from the jade water all around us. Every one of the hundred islands was shrouded in jungle trees that were shriveling their way through the dry season.... Continue Reading →
Holy Khao!
The second chapter of my 2024 Thai adventure was full of Khaos - Khao Lak and Khao Sok, that is, southwestern destinations near the ocean and jungle.
Alsace Wine Cycling Route
French Alsace’s medieval villages are an archipelago scattered across a sea of vineyards.
Thailand, so hot right now
The perfectly-square Old Town of Chiang Mai is a compact 1.5 miles on each side, yet the density of temples apparently rivals the concentration of churches in Rome.
Japan, Chapter III: Nara to Kinosaki Onsen
My final three days in Japan, which I spent patting wild deer amid temples in Nara, inhaling cheesecake in Osaka, and disintegrating in the volcanic hot spring waters of Kinosaki Onsen.
Japan, Chapter II: Fuji to Kyoto
I'm a firm believer in letting myself be surprised by a destination rather than doing too much research beforehand, which can have either disastrous or amazing results depending on whether I happen to miss or find the highlights.
Japan, Chapter I: to Tokyo
If I had to summarize my impression of Japan after my ten-day visit using only one sentence, it might be this: “I imagine Japan emerged from ancient East Asian culture in a similar way to how shibas somehow evolved from wolves.”
Where do I begin?
On my panicked internal response to the ubiquitous question of "How was your trip?" after I returned from a month traveling through eastern Asia.
Collecting Goshuin: my favorite Japanese souvenir and activity
Goshuin, or hand-made calligraphic seals that are painted and stamped at Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines, are scattered across Japan like a secret endless scavenger hunt to be found by those in the know. Here I show you the 22 goshuin I collected with a map if you want to collect them yourself!
RomE-biking
The basilica of Papale di Santa Maria Maggiore, floodlit in gold, scintillated against the indigo sky. I flew beneath its lofty towers, only remembering that I sat astride an electric bicycle whenever I hit a particularly ill-placed cobble.
Gluten-Free in Italy
Italy. The promised land of cuisine: pizza and pasta, bruschetta and focaccia. Sounds amazing…unless your body has a problem with wheat. I'm here to tell you: absolutely don’t let this idea put you off of traveling in Italy. It’s 2023, baby, and we’ve got options now.
When airlines give you lemons
While we’re on the subject of airplane food, let’s talk about British Airways.
Edinburgh: Whisky & Folklore
As evidenced by my illustrious undergrad career, I do not need any help with drinking whisk[e]y. My sophistication, on the other hand, is always in dire need of a leg up. I’m one of those people who can tell you if wine is made from red or white grapes, or whether I like the taste... Continue Reading →
A wedding in Ankara, real original!
When arguably my two best Turkish friends invited me to their wedding in Ankara with 4 months’ notice, I only swore at them for a second before I tripped over myself to change all my preexisting travel plans to the Faroe Islands for that weekend.
Greatest Hits Volume II: North America
Photograph-and-prose love letters to some favorite places in North America.
A series of ridiculous events
True short tales of absurd things that have happened to me around the world
What’s in a quote?
“The world is a book, and those who don’t travel read only one page.” -St Augustine You may recognize this quote; it’s become ubiquitous in the travel world. I think there is a certain wonderful truth to it, but there are also many delicate caveats to its truth. The important thing is to restrict the... Continue Reading →
Keep the change
I stick a hand in my pocket and find a medium-sized coin, and I can tell which nation it’s from without even looking at it. The metal of it feels wrong somehow; the face that kisses the pad of my thumb is a little denser and softer than what I’m used to now. American…not Canadian. ... Continue Reading →
The mountains are calling
I broke up with Germany a little over a month ago. This sounds terribly dramatic, but that was how it felt at the time. I was unwillingly wrenched away from my former love and immediately snatched up by a new burly, flannel-clad suitor - Canada - without so much as a solicitation of my opinion... Continue Reading →
A year abroad in 1600 words or less
I’ve always been a runner. Not in the actual foot-on-pavement way (who has time for that crap?), but in the sense that I always need to be moving. Whenever I get bored with a place, or if life takes an unexpected turn, or even just if I’ve been in the same place for too long,... Continue Reading →
Emerald Isle
I’m not convinced this place is real. I thought this so many times during this trip, it became my unofficial motto. There’s an untamed and ancient magic here that bleeds from every landscape we come across, an enchantment that seeps into the air and fills our lungs. “The Emerald Isle” is a nickname as fanciful... Continue Reading →
Prague and the Bone Chapel of Kutna Hora
How the hell did I end up here?! I’m standing in the bowels of the Earth surrounded by the ancient remains of 40,000 humans, and suddenly I'm questioning every decision I’ve ever made. I’d always been that person who heard stories about the catacombs in Paris and thought Nope, not for me. I’ve walked through... Continue Reading →
Pisa and the Cinque Terre
Our graffiti'd train is swallowed by a long tunnel almost immediately after we leave the platform in Pisa. I keep staring at the blackness outside the window anyways, hoping for something more interesting to look at than the featureless back of the gray seat in front of me. Within a few minutes I’m rewarded with... Continue Reading →
Falling in love with Istanbul
Big cities and I have a complicated relationship. Despite my desire to like them, we’ve never gotten along. I know many people who love cities and are drawn to their vibrancy, centering entire vacations around thriving metropolises and then encouraging me to do the same. I always try desperately to make it work: eating the... Continue Reading →
Window Seat Odyssey 