I’m not convinced this place is real. I thought this so many times during this trip, it became my unofficial motto. There’s an untamed and ancient magic here that bleeds from every landscape we come across, an enchantment that seeps into the air and fills our lungs. “The Emerald Isle” is a nickname as fanciful... Continue Reading →
Prague and the Bone Chapel of Kutna Hora
How the hell did I end up here?! I’m standing in the bowels of the Earth surrounded by the ancient remains of 40,000 humans, and suddenly I'm questioning every decision I’ve ever made. I’d always been that person who heard stories about the catacombs in Paris and thought Nope, not for me. I’ve walked through... Continue Reading →
Falling in love with Istanbul
Big cities and I have a complicated relationship. Despite my desire to like them, we’ve never gotten along. I know many people who love cities and are drawn to their vibrancy, centering entire vacations around thriving metropolises and then encouraging me to do the same. I always try desperately to make it work: eating the... Continue Reading →
Pamukkale and Hierapolis
In the morning we took a packed train from Selcuk to Denizli, a three-hour ride through surprisingly verdant fields framed by towering cliffs and snow-capped mountains. Every seat was filled and it was boiling inside the car, but we were inexplicably the only ones sweating. A man walked down the aisle, carrying a tray piled... Continue Reading →
Window Seat Odyssey 