A lungful of cloud

I stand at the edge of a blank canvas. Featureless mist swirls in its depths. My gaze hungrily scans the emptiness, but I find only ghosts and shadows. The light pulses: dark to light and back again; the sun is doing its level best to break through the veil. Functionally blind, I must rely on... Continue Reading →

ยฟTe gusta yerba mate?

Whether I like yerba mate isnโ€™t really the point. Much like the anise-flavored rakฤฑ in Turkey, the allure is the shared experience. For those of you unfamiliar, yerba is a form of tea, the mate is a cup traditionally made from a hard hollowed gourd, and the sharing of โ€œyerba mateโ€ is a pseudo-religious ritual... Continue Reading →

Tierra del Fuego and Rio Cruz

Two weeks ago, I was unceremoniously thrown into a Toyota Hilux with two complete strangers. I would spend the next 8 days and 1600 kilometers with them, hiking 75 kilometers up and down largely pathless mountain faces near the Patagonian cities of Ushuaia, El Calafate, and El Chalten, conducting research for upwards of fourteen hours... Continue Reading →

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